ENDANGEREDPLACES.COM
ENDANGEREDPLACES.COM
2008
The night I camped on the quiet leeward shore of West Caicos, the island had a population of five: two writers, an architect, a construction foreman, and an “organizer of island pursuits” who kept us up late drinking rum, playing dominoes and indulging in a midnight snorkel under a velvet sky splattered with stars. In the morning, sunbeams baked the silver thatch palms and sea oats that lined the toasted-sugar sand. We waded in motionless water the color of antifreeze, and declared ourselves willing castaways on a Caribbean isle that’s been deserted for 100 years.
it won’t be deserted for long. Our hosts were part of a group of developers whose vision for West Caicos is a sustainable tropical paradise that represents a new, greener era of island living. They invited us to experience a place in transition, an usual project that could take a beautiful, natural destination and actually make it better (for those who can afford it, anyway).
The westernmost link in the Turks and Caicos chain will soon house the 125-room Ritz-Carlton Molasses Reef hotel and a handful of 18th-century Caribbean style villas, all developed with preservation in mind—as they see it, it’s a minor sacrifice of 296 acres that will ensure the protection of a few thousand more.
The new, eco-friendly “settlement,” which will cover less than a tenth of the 11-square-mile island, is an attempt to use careful sustainability planning to thwart the overdevelopment that plagues nearby isles. Guests will get around on bicycles or golf carts; wooden boardwalks will protect the fragile silver thatch palm groves; and an environmental stewardship program will preserve archaeological relics, create and maintain public parks and beaches, reintroduce the once-endemic rock iguana, and establish an education center and interpretive trails.
Buying into this dream is not for the weak of wallet—overnight stays will start at $695. As for the villas, well, if you have to ask …
West Caicos Island, British West Indies
Kimberly Lisagor
Go
Even after West Caicos becomes the realm of the rich and famous, you’ll be able to explore the area with Big Blue Unlimited Turks and Caicos’ only eco-outfitter will take you diving, kayaking, hiking on and around West Caicos and the other isles. I didn’t get to dive on this trip, but I saw half a dozen manta rays during the boat ride to the island. On West Caicos, you can walk to the offshore reef from the beach.
Don’t miss
Big Blue Unlimited co-owner Mark Parrish took us kayaking on Lake Catherine, a salt-water lake in the middle of the island that connects to the ocean by underwater caves (when the tide is going out, you can see them swirling from above … like a toilet flushing). Parrish and a friend are working on mapping those caves, a feat that involves an intimidating series of really tight dives. I was happy to stay above water here, cruising along the shoreline with the resident flamingoes.
Get involved
The West Caicos Reserve website has a few pages on the island’s community, history and preservation programs. Also check out UNESCO’s page on Turks and Caicos beach erosion, which addresses the sand mining, pollution and out-of-control construction problems that the West Caicos developers are trying to avoid.
© 2007 Kimberly Lisagor & Heather Hansen